I'm thanking my lucky stars I don't have to drive a car in this ice and snow. But if I did, I'd still be clueless as to how to put snow chains on my tires. Luckily, the folks at WSDOT have made a helpful YouTube video on how to do so:
7 Comments
By Lou Wolcott on December 19, 2008 7:34 PM
where do chains go on all whell drive cars? volvo?
By Tim on December 20, 2008 8:48 AM
Lou on all wheel drive cars, the chains should go on the front. Why you might ask. This is because the front is heavier. ie. engine weight over front tires.
Now as far as your how to put chains on. The first thing I would say is lose those crappy cable chains and buy some real chains made from chain link and not wire cable.
Those chains in the video are crap and they are pointless if your already stuck becuase you can not drive onto them.
If your gonna use chains pony up and buy some quality chains, you wont regret it. Just the ease of putting them on should convince you to buy quality chains.
When I pulled up to the bottom of my hill the other night, my neighbor was putting cable chains on. He already had one side complete. I pulled up and had both chains on in five minutes, while he was still fiddling with the other side.
Not to mention the traction you get from quality chains that actually fit tight and snug.
By Jr on December 21, 2008 12:18 PM
When is the appropriate time to put chains on a car? i.e. in 1-6' of snow? Can u still put chains on a 4*4?
By naomi priest on December 21, 2008 5:14 PM
if your car is front wheel drive, do you put the chains in the front tires?
By bwo on December 22, 2008 11:20 AM
You always put the chains on the drive tires Naomi. So yes Front wheel drive get chains on the front. Rear wheel drive goes on rear, and AWD can take either, but it's generally recommend on the front. On a Front wheel drive the chains up front will help with accelerating and general stopping but you may notice a tendency for the rear to want to slide a round the front when stopping hard or letting of the throttle hard(which you shouldn't be doing in the snow anyways).
Remember that most chains are speed rated to only ~30 mph and they need to be re-tightened after a few minutes of driving.
I do recommend the "quick-fit" or easy-fit chains as they don't require you to drive over them. They cost more, but if you need to use them they're way easier to put on. I'll admit I have the cheaper basic chains. I agree with comment that the best chains have an actual chain link across the tread of the tires and only use cables on the sides.
I know les schwab stores(I used to work there) gladly show people the correct way to apply the chains and their quickfits have the the instructions on a large plastic mat that you can kneel on while installing the chains.
By mary carothers on December 22, 2008 11:46 AM
I have heard that chains can be assisted with bungee cords which keep things from loosening on the tire. If so-how does that work and how do you attach it to the chain or cable?
By raymond- on December 25, 2008 8:42 AM
I would opine that both cable and chain traction devices are both very viable depending on conditions. As always you choose the tool for job.... and in this case, for the environment.
I have both cable and chain for all my vehicles and have used both variations for the past 30 years living here in the Puget Sound area. None have broken and I drive within the recommended speed limits when they're attached.
The advantage of the cable is that they do well
for most Seattle snowfall but they're not the best selection for thick, glazed icing conditions. The noise level is much lower and arguably, less stressful for one's suspension. Cables are far from trash as described above.
Chains excel for deep snow. Chain links which feature traction bars work wonderfully in severe conditions, and most recently in Seattle, when hard...thick, compact snow/ice was present in most neighborhoods...left untouched by road clearing crews but driven over and over and condensed by vehicles.
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where do chains go on all whell drive cars? volvo?
Lou on all wheel drive cars, the chains should go on the front. Why you might ask. This is because the front is heavier. ie. engine weight over front tires.
Now as far as your how to put chains on. The first thing I would say is lose those crappy cable chains and buy some real chains made from chain link and not wire cable.
Those chains in the video are crap and they are pointless if your already stuck becuase you can not drive onto them.
If your gonna use chains pony up and buy some quality chains, you wont regret it. Just the ease of putting them on should convince you to buy quality chains.
When I pulled up to the bottom of my hill the other night, my neighbor was putting cable chains on. He already had one side complete. I pulled up and had both chains on in five minutes, while he was still fiddling with the other side.
Not to mention the traction you get from quality chains that actually fit tight and snug.
When is the appropriate time to put chains on a car? i.e. in 1-6' of snow? Can u still put chains on a 4*4?
if your car is front wheel drive, do you put the chains in the front tires?
You always put the chains on the drive tires Naomi. So yes Front wheel drive get chains on the front. Rear wheel drive goes on rear, and AWD can take either, but it's generally recommend on the front. On a Front wheel drive the chains up front will help with accelerating and general stopping but you may notice a tendency for the rear to want to slide a round the front when stopping hard or letting of the throttle hard(which you shouldn't be doing in the snow anyways).
Remember that most chains are speed rated to only ~30 mph and they need to be re-tightened after a few minutes of driving.
I do recommend the "quick-fit" or easy-fit chains as they don't require you to drive over them. They cost more, but if you need to use them they're way easier to put on. I'll admit I have the cheaper basic chains. I agree with comment that the best chains have an actual chain link across the tread of the tires and only use cables on the sides.
I know les schwab stores(I used to work there) gladly show people the correct way to apply the chains and their quickfits have the the instructions on a large plastic mat that you can kneel on while installing the chains.
I have heard that chains can be assisted with bungee cords which keep things from loosening on the tire. If so-how does that work and how do you attach it to the chain or cable?
I would opine that both cable and chain traction devices are both very viable depending on conditions. As always you choose the tool for job.... and in this case, for the environment.
I have both cable and chain for all my vehicles and have used both variations for the past 30 years living here in the Puget Sound area. None have broken and I drive within the recommended speed limits when they're attached.
The advantage of the cable is that they do well
for most Seattle snowfall but they're not the best selection for thick, glazed icing conditions. The noise level is much lower and arguably, less stressful for one's suspension. Cables are far from trash as described above.
Chains excel for deep snow. Chain links which feature traction bars work wonderfully in severe conditions, and most recently in Seattle, when hard...thick, compact snow/ice was present in most neighborhoods...left untouched by road clearing crews but driven over and over and condensed by vehicles.